Author: Alexandra Cedrowski

  • Why matcha mania is taking over Brookline’s cafés

    Deborah Obeng enjoys her matcha at the Maruichi Tea House in Brookline. Photo by Miu Tung Rong.

    Walking through Coolidge Corner on a weekend morning, it’s hard not to notice the matching cups. Dozens of people pass by holding the same clear plastic cup — each one filled with a layered, vividly green drink. Some swirl it as they walk. Others pause to take photos before taking a sip.

    Matcha – the finely ground powder of specially grown and processed green tea leaves, known for its earthy, slightly bitter taste and vibrant green hue – has become a highly visible part of Brookline’s food and drink culture. What was once a niche product in health food stores and Japanese grocers is now a common order at cafés and tea houses, especially among younger consumers.

    “I personally have whisked easily over 10,000 matchas,” said Akira Kato, the shift lead at Maruichi Select, a Japanese tea house and market in Brookline. “I actually have a callus from it.”

    The rise of matcha – whose global market is valued at over $2 billion and growing – reflects broader shifts in how people consume food and drink, prioritizing aesthetic appeal, health benefits and cultural variety. Over time, it has steadily integrated into everyday routines, reflecting changing tastes and a growing interest in Japanese tea culture.

    Matcha originated in China during the Tang Dynasty and was brought to Japan by Zen Buddhist monk Eisai in the 12th century, where it became deeply rooted in meditative rituals and the tea ceremony tradition, according to Matcha.com. Eventually, regions like Uji in Kyoto refined the cultivation and stone-grinding techniques, turning matcha into a symbol of Japanese culture and craftsmanship, according to Tenzo Teas.

    Maruichi  Select, part of the Fuji Mart Corp. family of Japanese grocers and markets, launched its Brookline “Select” boutique in 2021. The store combines a curated selection of private‑brand and imported goods — ranging from pantry staples to gift items — with a café offering handcrafted beverages and food. Its prominent matcha line offers insight into how global trends gain local traction and how social media visibility can shape real-world behavior.

    Two cups of matcha at Maruichi in Brookline. Photo by Anny Zheng Wu.

    Other Brookline spots serving matcha — like Kyo Matcha, Caffè Nero and Japonaise Bakery — point to the drink’s broader popularity in cafés, bakeries and specialty shops.

    This summer Junbi Matcha & Tea will open its first Massachusetts location in Brookline. The brand has 11 locations across the United States and is opening eight more, including the shop at 190 Washington St. in Brookline Village. With drinks like yuzu dragon fruit and strawberry matcha, Junbi adds even more variety to Brookline’s booming café scene.

    Kato has observed the tea house’s rising matcha demand firsthand. On a busy Saturday, staff prepare anywhere between 700 to 800 matcha drinks, often with customers ordering in groups or picking up multiple drinks for friends or family. Prices typically range from $8 to nearly $20, especially when drinks are paired with food items or include seasonal ingredients.

    Unlike most cafés, where matcha is pre-mixed and poured, each drink at Maruichi is hand-whisked to order — a time-consuming process that some customers view as part of the appeal.

    “It’s never pre-batched in a big container or in squeezy bottles,” Kato said. It’s all just right, directly from the bag into the tins, and then we just whisk it.”

    That attention to detail is part of what drew in Deborah Obeng, who typically makes her own matcha at home.

    “I don’t typically go to places just because I don’t like their quality,” she said. “So I usually make it at home. But this one was worth trying.”

    “I saw her whisking it just like I make it at home, so that makes me feel good about it,” she added. “It’s not super sweet. You can still get the green earthiness from the matcha.”

    Maruichi’s growing visibility has been boosted by limited-edition seasonal menus and pop-up events. One of the most high-profile was a 2024 collaboration with Japanese tea brand Yamamotoyama, featuring Eitaro, a tea expert who traveled from Japan to participate.

    “I think the pop-ups we’ve been having, where we’ve had the strawberry matcha with the guy coming in — that really, especially on TikTok and Instagram, that really propelled us forward.”

    The influence of those online posts has translated into in-person traffic. Kaylie Chapa, a 2025 Boston University graduate, said she was drawn in by a seasonal special.

    “The strawberry one last year was amazing,” she said. “Now I got the seasonal mango one. It’s my favorite matcha.”

    According to Kato, drinks like the mango or strawberry matcha outsell the house menu items during seasonal periods. “For every tonic drink we sell, we probably sell maybe three to four mango matchas,” he said.

    Nikhill Deo & Dani Murdoch enjoy their matcha at Maruichi Select. Photo by Miu Tung Rong.

    With increased attention has come the challenge of maintaining quality at high volumes. Kato said that during crowded events, consistency can be difficult to manage.

    “I heard some complaints saying the matcha was too strong or too weak,” Kato said. “It was so hectic that we couldn’t measure it out,” he said. “Outside of pop-up, we measure everything, you know, by weight just to make sure… we really need that consistency.”

    Flavor preference also plays a role in feedback.

    “Our matcha is pretty strong compared to a lot of other places,” Kato said. “So a lot of people are like, ‘This is too matcha-forward,’ you know. So they either ask for more milk or more syrup.”

    Oat milk is the most popular add-on, though Kato said he personally prefers soy milk for matcha. Syrup additions, like vanilla, are common among first-time customers or those seeking a sweeter option.

    He recommends hojicha, roasted green tea, for those looking for a milder option. “If you had to compare matcha to grass, right – I would say hojicha is more like wood,” he said.

    Though matcha is the main draw, Maruichi also offers a wide range of Japanese grocery items — from onigiri and bento boxes to imported sake and snacks.

    “A lot of people come in here and they’re like, ‘Wow. It’s like I took a plane to Japan,’” Kato said.

  • Gouda times roll at Curds and Co. cheese tastings

    Victoria Glatz and Sam Joseph enjoying a class at Curds and Co. Photo by Miu Tung Rong.

    The clink of wine glasses and the laughter of strangers getting to know one another filled the air at a small cheese shop in Brookline, as they shared slices of Florette and spoonfuls of rosemary grapefruit marmalade.

    Tastings at Curds & Co. feel like dinner parties. You’ll catch people conquering their fear of blue cheese or debating the ideal wine pairing for a funky washed-rind cheese. It’s not just about tasting — it’s about creating a space where curiosity and community meet over cheese.

    “We use these events to push people out of their comfort zone,” said Becky Mason, the general manager, who guides tastings.

    While most people don’t associate cheese shops with Friday night plans, Curds & Co. has carved out a small role in Brookline’s social life. The shop hosts weekly themed events — from wine pairings to tarot card nights — that blend education and entertainment for locals looking for something different.

    Friday’s “Bubbly Buzz” class gathered guests around a long table in the Washington Street shop to sample four sparkling wines and four cheeses, paired with unexpected touches like lemon honey and lemon artichoke pesto. Tickets range from $50 to $65, and class sizes typically stay between 6 and 18 people.

    A platter of cheese at Curds and Co. Photo by Miu Tung Rong.

    “We’ve had people who live right nearby and have never heard of us,” Mason said. “We’re really trying to get more locals in.”

    That local connection runs deep for Mason, who grew up just around the corner and attended Brookline public schools. Her mother, Jenn Mason, opened the store after careers in art, market research and magazine publishing. “She found this love of cheese,” Mason said, recalling how her mom brought home different cheeses from the grocery store and made small cheese plates each night.

    Noticing a gap in the community, Jenn enrolled in a cheese school in San Francisco to study cheese mongering before opening the shop in 2017 with her husband, Matt Mason.

    “We want it to be a friendly environment where people feel comfortable to go up to the case and try something new,” Mason said.

    Becky Mason teaches a class on cheese at Curds and Co. Photo by Miu Tung Rong.

    Victoria Glatz, a registered dietitian and longtime customer, attended Friday’s class with her partner, Sam Joseph. Though she often stops by for lunch, initially drawn in by the grilled cheese, this was her first tasting event.

    “I would definitely come back,” Glatz said.

    The couple appreciated the relaxed format and the way the class encouraged them to try unexpected combinations. “They’re really intentional about the pairing and had a really good point of flavors,” Joseph said.

    Though neither enjoyed the pickled red onions, both liked the rosemary grapefruit marmalade and were surprised by how much they enjoyed some of the bolder cheeses. When asked to describe the night, Joseph called it “informative, fun and surprising.”

    Glatz often grabs lunch at the shop, usually ordering a customizable grilled cheese. “The base sandwich costs five or six bucks,” she said, though her go-to add-ons, prosciutto and hot honey, bring it closer to $10.

    While the atmosphere is welcoming, not every customer likes the pricing. Mason acknowledged occasional pushback. The store adds a 7% administrative fee to purchases — a policy some customers question.

    “The admin fee just goes straight to the employees,” Mason said. “It gives them an extra two to five dollars per hour, depending on the time of year.” The shop does not accept tips. Curds & Co. operates with a small team: three full-time and four part-time employees.

    Though Mason is pursuing a master’s in art education, she continues to manage the store. Her parents, Jenn and Matt Mason, have since moved to Sicily and are seeking a buyer to continue the business.

    Curds and Co hosts a cheese class on Friday, Jun 6, 2025. Photo by Miu Tung Rong.

    For now, the shop continues to draw both familiar faces and curious newcomers.

    “We definitely have a lot of regulars that we know by name,” Mason said. “But we also have about 50% new customers who have never been here before.”

    Even after seven years, Mason said, people still walk in thinking the space is something else.

    “This used to be a UPS Store,” she said. “And for years people would come with their packages and be like, ‘Where’s the UPS store?’ And we’re like, ’It hasn’t been here for a couple years, but we have cheese.’”

  • ‘You don’t give up’: In new book, Brookline gym owner John Carter recounts injury, incarceration, recovery and redemption

    John Carter at the Hummingbird Book Store in Chestnut Hill on Wednesday, Jun 11, 2025. Photo by Muayad Al-Barwani

    John Carter was shot in the head, left in a coma for 99 days and told he’d never walk again.

    Yet on Wednesday night he stood tall – steady, smiling and surrounded by people who came to support him.

    “I had a choice – go back to the life I knew, or take the left and go to a halfway house,” said John Carter, author of “Triggered to Change: A Life Full of Turbulence” and owner of Titanium Health and Fitness in Brookline. “That left turn saved my life.”

    In a cozy corner of Hummingbird Books in Newton, Carter welcomed both familiar faces and newcomers for a free event Wednesday marking the release of his autobiography.

    The evening began with remarks from moderator Matthew Gregory, a client at Carter’s gym. It was followed by a conversation between Gregory and Carter, a question-and-answer session with audience members, and a book signing.

    In his autobiography, Carter, 57, recounts his early years surrounded by organized crime and addiction. He tried to follow in the footsteps of his father – a member of the mob – and quickly fell into dealing drugs, drinking and gambling.

    “My life spiraled out of control,” Carter said.

    He was shot in the back of the head, which he referred to as “the violent moment in 1992.” After surviving the injury, he found himself in a wheelchair, weighing 350 pounds, and still abusing and dealing substances. When police raided his home – 12 officers with guns drawn – Carter’s first thought was, “Thank God it’s over.” Authorities found drugs and cash. Carter spent 10 years in prison.

    But “Triggered to Change” isn’t about trauma – it’s about what comes after. The book focuses on resilience, recovery and choosing accountability over victimhood.

    “You don’t give up,” Carter said. “You get up. You keep going. Even if it’s slow, forward is forward.”

    John Carter signs copies of his book at the Hummingbird Book Store in Chestnut Hill on Wednesday, Jun 11, 2025. Photo by Muayad Al-Barwani

    After the Q&A, Carter’s son, Matthew Michael Carter, 20, reflected on the lessons his father passed down. In an interview, he said the most important was not to quit, even when giving up felt easier.

    “There were so many times I wanted to give up – especially during COVID,” Matthew said. “I was failing school and just wanted to drop out, but he wouldn’t let me.”

    Carter pushed him to finish high school and encouraged him to complete a year at Plymouth State University before making any decisions.

    “It’s OK to quit,” Matthew said, “but make sure you actually experience it all before you quit – because you might not know if you liked it or not.”

    Though he hasn’t finished reading “Triggered to Change,” Matthew said what he has read offered a deeper understanding.

    “I didn’t realize how deep it all went — how planned the shooting was, or that someone else was even in the house,” he said. “It’s crazy to think that if one thing had gone differently, I wouldn’t be here.”

    Shelley McHale, who served as Hummingbird Books’ original manager when it opened in 2022 and was present during Wednesday’s event, said Carter’s story clearly resonated with the audience.

    “We try to host meaningful events for local authors,” McHale said. “There was strong energy in the room. Everyone seemed genuinely invested in what John had to say.”

    McHale added that the store hosts around 50 events a year, balancing larger names with emerging local voices. “For authors just starting out, it’s tough to break in,” she said. “But when there’s a compelling story, we want to make space for it.”

    The audience at John Carter’s book signing event at the Hummingbird Book Store in Chestnut Hill on Wednesday, June 11, 2025. Photo by Muayad Al-Barwani

    Ian Rossin, Carter’s publicist, helped promote the event and saw the turnout as a promising sign for Carter’s message.

    “This was John’s first public speaking event since his TED Talk in 2019,” Rossin said. “He’s done podcasts recently but nothing like this. It really meant something to see that crowd.”

    Rossin believes the book’s potential impact extends across audiences. “It’s a story about resilience, sure, but it’s also about fatherhood, addiction and second chances,” he said. “No matter who you are, there’s something in there that will stick with you.”

    Employees from the Service Dog Project, a Massachusetts-based nonprofit that breeds and trains Great Danes for people with mobility impairments, also attended. Carter has had two service dogs from the organization: Jagger, who retired because of health issues, and Turbulence, who now accompanies him daily.

    Karen Mallory, an employee with the group, has followed Carter’s story for years. “He’s remarkable,” she said. “To see the disadvantages and challenges he’s faced— some of them self-inflicted— and where he is now? It’s a testament to the human spirit.”

    Jami Snow, another employee, added that Carter’s attitude mirrors the mission of their organization. “He never gives up. He just keeps going,” she said. “A lot of people could benefit from that.”

    Carter announced that a portion of the book’s proceeds will go toward supporting the Service Dog Project’s operations.

    For Carter, the goal wasn’t just to tell his story, but to show others change is possible. “You just have to make the choice,” he said. “Then do the work.”